A pictoral review of the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph and it's many dial variations
HEUER Military Flyback Chronograph Bundeswehr 1550 SG Military Serial # 6645-12-146-3774 Circa: 1970's Reference No.: 1550 SG Serial: 9137 Dial: Black Dial with Heuer logo & 3H symbol, luminous deco numerals, subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and 30 minute chrono counter at 3 o'clock. So to determine when your watch was manufactured, you will need to find where your serial number fits within the range of numbers. Serial number look-up example: Let's say you have a Waltham watch with serial number 21,607,210 as shown in the photo below. Note that we're using the serial number from the watch movement, not from the watch case. The Heuer Serial Number Project! I would like to enter a few more serial numbers before publishing a first draft of the table. Accordingly, if you have a Heuer chronograph from the 1940's, 50's or early 60's, with a Valjoux movement, and a serial number marked on the movement (main bridge), please send me the following information. The serial number of your watch is engraved on the case at the 6 o'clock end between the lugs. You will need to remove the bracelet/strap to see it. The model reference is engraved in the same place at the 12 o'clock end. As of August 2010, serial numbers for new Rolex watches are randomized, making it impossible to use the numbers for dating. On September 16, 2020, TAG Heuer introduced a new model, simply called the 'Carrera Chronograph'. It's a 42 millimeter watch, powered by the Heuer 02 movement, with four choices of dials — black, blue, anthracite and silver (white).
Updates: Dec 2005, May 2006, Jun 2006, Aug 2006, Oct 2008, Feb 2009, Apr 2012
Introduction Lately there has been much discussion surrounding what constitutes an authentic Heuer Bundeswehr-spec chronograph. This is an effort to document the many dial variations and gather, in a single place, enough information to make an informed assessment of this highly regarded timepiece. if you'd like a self-contained version of this project, click here to download this page in PDF format. Findings There are 5 general configuations of Heuer-branded dials:
There are 2 general configurations of Sinn-branded dials:
Here are cropped images of each unique style, allowing you to easily scan the various styles to find one that interests you. In addition, each image has been (as much as feasible) given the same relative dimensions to make meaningful comparisons relatively easy. Click on a style that interests you to learn more specifics.
Assessment First, let me say that I believe all of these Heuer/Sinn Bundeswehr chronographs to be authentic: all have the proper movment, all have the proper case, all have the proper bezel, all have the proper crystal...etc. They only have subtle differences in their dials, apparently based on when, and by whom, they were produced or assembled. The questions for the enthusiast become:
These features seem to be associated with the work Sinn did in providing Bundeswehr-spec watches.
There was no consistency in the style of 3H-symbol - 3 styles were found. Perhaps Sinn used a number of different 3H printing screens in production? Perhaps these 3H-symbols were added by the unscrupulous? In addition, the absence of the T-symbol was not distinct to these later watches, since several early examples were found without the T-symbol. If anyone owns or knows of yet another dial variation, please forward me an in-focus, close-up scan of the dial. In addition, if anyone is in possession of any factual data around the timeline and evolution of the Bundeswehr specification and the watches produced to meet that specification, please foward that information to me for inclusion in this living document. Disclaimer These images have been borrowed without permission from the MWR and various sites that have been linked from posts on the MWR and discovered via web-searches. Since this effort is not for fiduciary gain, I'm comfortable using these images without permission. If you see a scan of your watch and would not like it to be part of this project, please contact me directly and I'll remove it. However, I encourage everyone to participate as this project is intended for the edification of the watch community as a whole. | |||
This represents an example of the 'classic' Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph:
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Yet another variation on the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph:
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This is the most rare of Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph - the STERNZEIT REGULIERT:
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This represents a slightly different example of the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Yet another variation on the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Still another variation on the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph:
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This is a copy of an advertisement from the early 1990s offering overhauled/refurbished Heuer Bundeswehr chronographs - just contact Sinn! With this, we're introducing 2 key new dial variations:
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Here is an apparent example of a Sinn-refurbished Heuer Bundeswehr chrongraph:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Another apparent example, though slightly different, of a Sinn-refurbished Heuer Bundeswehr chrongraph:
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Another apparent example, yet another variation, of a Sinn-refurbished Heuer Bundeswehr chrongraph. There are slight differences between the dial print of these 2 examples, with the 2nd one quite different from the dial print found on most other dials:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Here we see our first example of a Sinn-branded Bundeswehr chronograph:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Another example of a Sinn-branded Bundeswehr chronograph:
Back to 'Dial Comparison' | |||
Here's a scan of the original Bundeswehr specification. In addition, here's a link to the servicing manual for the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph (written in German, file is PDF format). | |||
While the Sternzeit Reguliert is impossibly rare, this is arguably the most rare of Heuer Bundeswehr chronographs: a unique prototype powered by the Caliber 12 automatic movement. This was submitted to the Bundeswehr for consideration, but never adopted. This amazing piece is owned by Gerd R. Lang, owner of Chronoswiss and formerly an engineer with Heuer. | |||
This is the spiritual successor of the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph: the Sinn 156 Mil. This is a thoroughly modern interpretation, featuring:
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This is Michael Kobold's effort in 2003 to tack onto the success of this storied timepiece: the Kobold 323 Pilot Chronograph. This watch is a Sinn 156 fitted with a Kobold-signed dial. Technical features are identical to the Sinn 156 and it even features a Sinn-signed crown! The supplies for this watch and movement are limited; Kobold's run of 323s was only 20 pieces. | |||
This piece came to my attention in late 2005: the Sinn 155 Replica. Apparently this is specially produced in limited numbers for the Japanese market. It appears very true to the original, even featuring a hand-wound ETA7760 movement and proper 4-screw caseback. Obviously, the style of the hands is from Sinn's existing 103 flieger-style watches. | |||
This piece came to my attention in late 2008: the second-generation Sinn 155 Replica. This was produced in limited numbers (300 pieces), possibly for the German market. Like the first-generation 155, this one captures the essence of the original; however, with critical departures in the sub-dials and the addition of a day/date display. Based on an ETA7750 movement, this necessitated the relocation of the sub-dials from 3-9 to 6-12 along with the replacement of the constant-seconds register with a 12-hour totalizer. The style of the hands is from Sinn's existing 103 flieger-style watches and is fitted with a threaded caseback. | |||
It finally happened in 2006 - 'Ray' the notorious creator of Chinese mil-watch reproductions found on eBay got around to trying his hand on the Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph. Actually, Ray stole the idea from a mil-watch enthusiast I know. Ray's effort is pretty good at capturing the essence of the original, and even includes a reproduction of the Venus 175 column-wheel movement. The main problem people have with this watch are the issue-markings on the back and the ambiguous/dishonest descriptions used on his auction listings. | |||
Apparently, Breitling supplied a very similar sort of watch to the Italian military forces with the 817: | |||
These 2 watches are examples of generally similar Heuer watches apparently produced for the Italian Air Force, albeit powered by a Valjoux 7750 movement. I cannot say for certain if they are legitimate, but they sure are interesting pieces: | |||
This interesting variant came to light in 2008. The same Valjoux 230 powered Heuer was also issued to the Norwegian Air Force in the '70s. The dial was the same as the typical 'small-t' variant without the '3H'. The most interesting feature is the unique engravings on the caseback, as pictured. |
Way down at the bottom of this blog, possibly in the first post, there is a picture of a Heuer 1550 SG I once owned. I don't know about you, but I have a pretty firm No Repeats rule, which keeps me from buying the same watch twice. If I didn't like it enough to keep it the first time, why would I buy it again? I loved that Heuer Bund but I used it in trade for an equally fantastic military-issued chronograph, which had been a grail for a long time too. Although I missed the Heuer, the Lemania I traded it for was a simply fantastic watch, and I convinced myself it was a good move. Not a mistake, exactly, but it definitely felt like future unfinished business.
My Heuer was an instant favorite and accompanied me on a lot of adventures. If you haven't owned one of these because the 43 mm case size put you off, let me attempt to change your mind. It is a 43 mm case, that's true, but they are thin and flat, and the lugs are perfectly proportioned. The result is a very close-fitting and comfortable watch. Not a wrist tank at all. Here is a picture of mine that I took on one of many trips to northern Michigan on which it was the perfect traveling companion.
And some pictures I took of it in a light box one time for fun.
Long after the watch and I parted ways, I learned that it most likely was put back into service in the Bundeswehr with the service dial and hands that it originally came to me with, those pictured above. But before I knew this, and out of a genuine but unnecessary sense of returning my Heuer to a more 'original' state, I sourced a tritium dial for it in Germany and had it installed on the watch. From then on, it looked like this:
In this iteration of the watch, the warm tritium dial didn't match the cooler color of the service hands, but this isn't uncommon with Heuer Bunds because of their military service history and it didn't really bother me. But, ironically, the modification made me less happy with the watch as a whole, not more happy. I had to admit that although I had started out with the best of intentions, what I had done didn't add value. So when the opportunity to make a trade for a totally original Lemania 6BB came up, one that allowed me to recoup my overall investment in the Heuer, I decided to wash my hands of it and start fresh.
But I always knew I'd come back to the Heuer Bund and I resolved to make a better decision the second time around. So I started doing my Heuer homework again, and after copious amounts of research and review, I was left feeling something less than excited and optimistic; depressed and confused were more like it. The Heuer-dialed watches are a minefield of frankens, put-togethers, outright fakes, and falsely modified dials (e.g., the non-genuine addition of the circle-3H to a plain dial by an unscrupulous seller). But my research also led me to learn more about the Sinn-dialed Bundeswehr watches, more than I had ever known before.
Now, it's widely known that Sinn had the contract to service these watches for the Bundeswehr in the 1980's. The point was to keep the watches in use; no one was thinking about the watch as a future collectible. At some point in the 1990's many Heuer 1550 SG watches were sold to the public directly by Sinn. No one appears to know how many or what dials these watches had, however, and a search of your favorite forum will produce multiple threads on the topic.
From what I have gathered, the small T dial was the original. The dials were then officially modified with the addition of the circle-3H to make the occupational hazard of tritium more readily apparent to people handling the watches, and at some point many of the watches were redialed altogether with service dials that used no tritium, so they had no small T and no circle-3H. All told, there are perhaps thirty different dial variations seen on these watches.
In addition to enthusiast discussion on the forums, the bigger blogs have all picked up on the Heuer Bund recently, and the collective voice is busy sorting out what exactly constitutes a genuine Heuer Bund. To make matters even more confusing, for reasons no one really seems to understand the market for these watches appears to prize New-Old-Stockness, and eschews the normal wear and tear you might expect on a 40-50 year old watch that has seen military service. This motivates the market in a certain way, not always good.
It was all of this that was swirling around in my head when I decided to look into buying another Heuer Bund, and this time I formulated a new strategy. Rather than looking for an 'original' Heuer watch, an elusive concept at best, I decided to find a Sinn. Yes, a Sinn. Although the Sinn-dialed watches are certainly less sought after by Heuer collectors and probably military watch collectors in general, they have a definite appeal to Sinn collectors.
What's more, in my view the Sinn dial sidesteps the whole originality issue. Of course it's not original. Anyone of any level of expertise can tell that a Heuer watch that says Sinn on the dial is not original. What it is, however, is a beautifully built watch that may or may not have seen actual military service in its current form, but certainly did in a past form. And in the case of my particular specimen anyway, it is freshly serviced by a master watchmaker at Sinn, the only remaining master watchmaker at Sinn who originally worked on these watches back when Sinn serviced them for the Bundeswehr. And interestingly, the case on my watch does in fact appear to be completely original. It has a low serial number and appears to have never been refinished or even polished. Ironic, considering I had decided not to get too hung up on this in my purchase criteria. The case on my Sinn is so original, you can still see the machining marks left over from the press that I presume stamped it out. The bezel has a pleasing amount of wear from its time in service, and the dial's lume is aging in a charming way and matches that of the hands exactly.
Perhaps nicest of all, I know the provenance of the watch back to the pilot who owned and used it in Germany. It doesn't get much cooler than that. On to some pictures.
Here we see the side of the unpolished, unrestored case:
The NSN indicating the watch was originally issued as a kit with a Bundeswehr strap:
Fantastic dial details and lume that is even and equally aged with the hands:
My Heuer was an instant favorite and accompanied me on a lot of adventures. If you haven't owned one of these because the 43 mm case size put you off, let me attempt to change your mind. It is a 43 mm case, that's true, but they are thin and flat, and the lugs are perfectly proportioned. The result is a very close-fitting and comfortable watch. Not a wrist tank at all. Here is a picture of mine that I took on one of many trips to northern Michigan on which it was the perfect traveling companion.
And some pictures I took of it in a light box one time for fun.
Long after the watch and I parted ways, I learned that it most likely was put back into service in the Bundeswehr with the service dial and hands that it originally came to me with, those pictured above. But before I knew this, and out of a genuine but unnecessary sense of returning my Heuer to a more 'original' state, I sourced a tritium dial for it in Germany and had it installed on the watch. From then on, it looked like this:
In this iteration of the watch, the warm tritium dial didn't match the cooler color of the service hands, but this isn't uncommon with Heuer Bunds because of their military service history and it didn't really bother me. But, ironically, the modification made me less happy with the watch as a whole, not more happy. I had to admit that although I had started out with the best of intentions, what I had done didn't add value. So when the opportunity to make a trade for a totally original Lemania 6BB came up, one that allowed me to recoup my overall investment in the Heuer, I decided to wash my hands of it and start fresh.
But I always knew I'd come back to the Heuer Bund and I resolved to make a better decision the second time around. So I started doing my Heuer homework again, and after copious amounts of research and review, I was left feeling something less than excited and optimistic; depressed and confused were more like it. The Heuer-dialed watches are a minefield of frankens, put-togethers, outright fakes, and falsely modified dials (e.g., the non-genuine addition of the circle-3H to a plain dial by an unscrupulous seller). But my research also led me to learn more about the Sinn-dialed Bundeswehr watches, more than I had ever known before.
Now, it's widely known that Sinn had the contract to service these watches for the Bundeswehr in the 1980's. The point was to keep the watches in use; no one was thinking about the watch as a future collectible. At some point in the 1990's many Heuer 1550 SG watches were sold to the public directly by Sinn. No one appears to know how many or what dials these watches had, however, and a search of your favorite forum will produce multiple threads on the topic.
From what I have gathered, the small T dial was the original. The dials were then officially modified with the addition of the circle-3H to make the occupational hazard of tritium more readily apparent to people handling the watches, and at some point many of the watches were redialed altogether with service dials that used no tritium, so they had no small T and no circle-3H. All told, there are perhaps thirty different dial variations seen on these watches.
In addition to enthusiast discussion on the forums, the bigger blogs have all picked up on the Heuer Bund recently, and the collective voice is busy sorting out what exactly constitutes a genuine Heuer Bund. To make matters even more confusing, for reasons no one really seems to understand the market for these watches appears to prize New-Old-Stockness, and eschews the normal wear and tear you might expect on a 40-50 year old watch that has seen military service. This motivates the market in a certain way, not always good.
It was all of this that was swirling around in my head when I decided to look into buying another Heuer Bund, and this time I formulated a new strategy. Rather than looking for an 'original' Heuer watch, an elusive concept at best, I decided to find a Sinn. Yes, a Sinn. Although the Sinn-dialed watches are certainly less sought after by Heuer collectors and probably military watch collectors in general, they have a definite appeal to Sinn collectors.
What's more, in my view the Sinn dial sidesteps the whole originality issue. Of course it's not original. Anyone of any level of expertise can tell that a Heuer watch that says Sinn on the dial is not original. What it is, however, is a beautifully built watch that may or may not have seen actual military service in its current form, but certainly did in a past form. And in the case of my particular specimen anyway, it is freshly serviced by a master watchmaker at Sinn, the only remaining master watchmaker at Sinn who originally worked on these watches back when Sinn serviced them for the Bundeswehr. And interestingly, the case on my watch does in fact appear to be completely original. It has a low serial number and appears to have never been refinished or even polished. Ironic, considering I had decided not to get too hung up on this in my purchase criteria. The case on my Sinn is so original, you can still see the machining marks left over from the press that I presume stamped it out. The bezel has a pleasing amount of wear from its time in service, and the dial's lume is aging in a charming way and matches that of the hands exactly.
Perhaps nicest of all, I know the provenance of the watch back to the pilot who owned and used it in Germany. It doesn't get much cooler than that. On to some pictures.
Here we see the side of the unpolished, unrestored case:
The NSN indicating the watch was originally issued as a kit with a Bundeswehr strap:
Fantastic dial details and lume that is even and equally aged with the hands:
Case reference 1550 SG is typically lightly engraved:
Heuer Bundeswehr Serial Numbers 222
I am always happy to meet other enthusiasts. If I have something factually incorrect above, please feel free to contact me. Thanks for reading!